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San Juanico to Mulege


By Lowell | June 4, 2010 | Category Baja 2010

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Gato Loco 2010 Leg #6, (Wednesday) – The morning wake up call in San Juanico was not an alarm, or anyone stirring in the boat… it was WIND! Everyone gets up and out earlier than usual as we all know it may be sails only today! The Ham Net weather forecast provides no guarantee what we are experiencing (20 – 23 knots sitting on anchor) will continue all day, but we believe we have something to work with! We quickly move through the morning routine, up anchor and make way out to open waters.

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Dave & Bill immediately determine that sails are going up, and they set about getting it done. Main sail & jib are the plan to get underway and go from there. Bill watches as Dave cranks up the main. We may finally have a SAILING day!

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Sails up! Main far left, Linda checks the full jib center. We spend about an hour making an average of 8.3 knots on what we determine is a Pacific wind pushing over the Baja and into the San Juanico area. Awesome sailing, crashing the surf, our first true sailing stretch with Gato Loco surfing the swells. Then, winds begin to dissipate, finally to the point that we are not making even 3 knots. With the long haul to Mulege, the sails come down (main sail down on right) 🙁 , motors on.

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A ways after the switch to motors Bill suggests a quick stop at another sea cave on Punta Pulpito… kind of like V-Cove. Dave & Ellen elect to make the dinghy ride through the opening and arch that turns to the right at the back of the initial opening.

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This sea cave is much bigger than meets the eye, even when up close on a boat! That’s Dave & Ellen coming out of the sea cave on the dinghy, the right side opening is far right! Just after leaving the sea cave we’re back on motors for just a short time when one of our trolling lines takes a hit! Visions of ceviche and/or fish tacos pop up again! We’ve been waiting for this since we started. We’re due!

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Linda grabs the pole and takes on what we all hope is finally a Dorado. After working it for a short while, reeling it in bit by bit… Bonito #3. UGH! Another Bonito… geez… the score now is Ladies 3, Guys 1. (Note from Linda… hey Mike Kinkin, this ones for you!)

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After the excitement, then disappointment of Linda’s catch, we motor on with a game of Rumminkube (fun rummy game with tiles kinda like dominoes), and with time for Dave to make some adjustments to his trolling lure. Ellen has a new relaxation spot too.

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Then, the sound of a spinning reel breaks the drone of motros again. Ellen is up and ready to bring in dinner!

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Ellen is determined to bring the catch home, all of us – once again – hoping that it’s ceviche or fish tacos time! UGH, IT’S BONITO again!! Time to restructure the score… new categories… The score is now Bonito 4, Gato Loco Leg #6 crew, 1.

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Again, more motor sailing on to Mulege, as we ponder the possibility that maybe someone stocked the Sea with Bonito only, and nothing else! We haven’t seen any dolphin, no bite on our lines besides Bonito… things underwater seem to be very different in this area from what previous Gato Loco crews have seen.

We motor on up to Mulege. Here’s the outer entrance, beacon light on the far right. NO, I am not trying to do #1 or #2 here… just in the middle of sitting down on front of the boat! Linda has a way of catching me in these situations!

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Mulege harbor entrance on right, closer to the beacon light hill. Then past the beacon light and near the end of deeper waters. We will anchor just ahead here.

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We depart Gato Loco for dry land, a tour of the Mission in Mulege, and dinner off the boat. We make land in the Mulege harbor late afternoon, just adjacent to the dirt landing strip in Mulege… a decently groomed dirt stretch of land between the military compound the the Hotel Serenedad. Strange set-up, but in Mexico, it is what it is. A lone twin prop private plane is parked at the hotel end of the strip. We hail a cab to go in town on a small tour. Gato Loco is anchored in the background at the right side base of the hill.

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As anyone stopping in Mulege should do, we visit “Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege”, established in 1705. The original mission was swept away by a flood, thus this hilltop version was built in 1770 to replace what was lost. As we walk by, there is a mass in progress! We felt more like intruders than tourists, so off to the scenic view point they built way back when for a look over the amazing collection of palm trees along the river.

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Doors are wide open on the Mission and the mass in progress. In an un-intended moment of pure embarassment, the flash on the camera goes off as the picture is taken!! OOPS!

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Linda has a look down and across the Rio Santa Rosalia river, lush with palm trees and greenery, right in the middle of what most of us from Arizona know as “the desert meets the water” (same as any of the Arizona lakes on the SRP project, and same as Rocky Point.

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Here’s our Gato Loco crew of 5, Bill – Larry – Linda – Ellen – Dave, atop the sceneic view spot with the interior of Mulege in the background.

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Dinner time! Bill suggests this restaurant… it seems to have several names. Scott’s Pelican Reef, Scotty’s Bar, and “El Candil”. Whatever name used to refer to it, GREAT green chili chicken enchladas!! The fish & chips are good too… Dave & Bill note that they use cabrilla for the fish, and the batter is full of seasonings that all who try it really enjoy.

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It isn’t long until Linda’s human “dog” (yours truly) is replaced by a four-legged local we nick-name “Mooch”. This dog made the rounds to every table in the place, and made out well at ours!

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Dave and Ellen are enjoying their dishes as well. Mooch isn’t missing anything either!

From here, it’s a short stop for some needed provisions, then a return to Gato Loco to continue the “Hearts” tournament.

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The tourney is on! The card game closes our evening, though it did go kind of late. First Ellen suffered a number of rounds getting stuck with the queen, then it happens 3 times in a row to me! Round 3 of the tourney may well happen tonight.

Side note here about “the mascot”. Our apologies to all who have already named the mascot “Wilson”. We actually thought of that too, but went with something different. We did not know the mascot had been named. Thus, we have incorporated both into the following full name… “Wilson Steven Loco”… ??? Will that fly? Gato Loco Leg #6 crew signing off.

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6 thoughts on “San Juanico to Mulege”

  • anita says:
    June 4, 2010 at 4:27 pm

    Hi ellen, DAve, bill Linda and larry great pics and great bloggin…
    Mulege is still on my bucket list!! have fun be safe

    Reply
  • brian says:
    June 4, 2010 at 4:38 pm

    Muuuuuuuuulageeeeeeeee……..:cool:

    Reply
  • Gill says:
    June 4, 2010 at 5:11 pm

    And the fun goes on!! Just saw your next crew(Clyde and Paul) this morning.. all eager and ready for the adventure!.. Enjoy your last moments on Gato Loco.. she’s such a fun loving vessel! Thanks for all the fotos and info.. you’ve done a great job Larry and your assistant photogs!

    Reply
  • Ralph says:
    June 4, 2010 at 7:48 pm

    My girlfriend {now wife} spent a year cruising the Med twenty years ago. I dearly miss the sailing. The joys all come back as I read about your adventures. Thanks for publishing your adventures on the internet. If you need a 78 year old cook on your boat, I am available. Thanks gain.

    Reply
  • Coni Stover says:
    June 4, 2010 at 11:02 pm

    You all look great, Doug is on his way for Leg 7. He is so excitted so I can’t wait for the next blog. Thanks for the pics, have a safe return every-one

    Reply
  • Don Julio says:
    June 6, 2010 at 10:16 am

    For Doug Stover on Leg 7,
    Don Douglio, I found the blog and I am tracking your movements. If you have trouble, my friend and shipmate John C Harvey is now Admiral of the Fleet Forces Command, this includes the Atlantic Fleet… he can come to your rescue! But I’m sure your in good hands. Have a great trip. Don Julio

    Reply

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