Perula and on to Tenacatita
Friday, February 6
Our 17-hour night passage was a pleasant, easy cruise with light winds and slow, rolling seas around Cabo Corrientes—quite different from the harrowing stories we’ve heard from other sailors. Changing our plans to depart a day earlier paid off, and my 6 a.m. watch meant I slept through the roughest part of the passage.
The sunrise was striking, with heavy cloud cover that slowly burned away to reveal a bright, sunny day.
As we approached Bahia Chamela, Paul finally captured a fantastic video of humpback whales breaching—something we’d only been able to watch from a distance until now.
We dropped anchor off the beach in front of Perula early in the afternoon. Our plan was to head ashore for some sightseeing and, more urgently, to find a laundry since we’re traveling light and in need of clean clothes. The approach into town is through a dredged river channel with a breakwater-protected entrance.
The surf along the beach was too strong for a safe landing, but the channel offered a welcoming sight: a well-kept malecón lined with docks and pangas, most of them used for tourist excursions. From there, it’s only a quarter-mile walk to the city center.
We found a laundry for the next day, then wandered down to the beach for a long walk. The sand was firm—perfect for walking or even bicycling.
As the sun set and the beach began to quiet for the evening, we settled in for a drink. Chris recommended a charming wine café in town, where we enjoyed dinner to close out the day.
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Saturday
After a restful night recovering from our passage, we tackled the glamorous task of laundry day. The reward for hauling our bags into town was a delicious breakfast at the same restaurant where we’d dined the night before.
With laundry dropped off, we treated ourselves to another long walk along the beach, soaking in the rhythm of the waves.
The afternoon was spent in well-deserved downtime, followed by Chris’s turn to cook—green curry stir-fry, a welcome change of flavor. Later, we capped the evening with music, watching a concert by the Mexican band The Warning.
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Super Bowl Sunday
After morning coffee, we moved anchor to the nearby islands for snorkeling. I ferried Chris and Paul by dinghy to a rocky shore, where the swells gave them a thrilling surge ride as they explored the underwater world.
9kBy mid-morning, we were underway again, heading 30 miles south to Bahia Tenacatita. The timing was perfect—it was Super Bowl Sunday and Frankie and I are entered the Super Bowl pool at Leo’s bar back in our home port of PuertoPeñasco. Fingers crossed for luck!
Bahia Tenacatita Adventure
We dropped anchor at 3:30 p.m. after another light-wind day of motor sailing, just in time to settle in for the game. No luck with the pool, but the matchup was exciting, and the halftime show delivered a vibrant Latin cultural experience. Watching from Strikhedonia in Tenacatita anchorage, surrounded by 30 other boats, made it all the more memorable.
Monday – Into the Estuary
Chris treated us to a special excursion, taking the dinghy through a light surf into an estuary channel that wound 2.5 miles inland to a beach.
The channel was lined with dense mangroves, at times forming a green tunnel overhead. We’d heard there were small crocodiles here, though none appeared.
At one point, the estuary shallowed so much we had to walk the dinghy to deeper water.
Our reward at the end of this journey was extraordinary—a rustic mezcal distillery tucked away beyond the beach.
A short stroll along the sand revealed rows of palapa restaurants. We realized the beach could also be reached directly by sea, though the estuary route was far more adventurous.
Mezcal Discovery
Poncho, from the distillery, picked us up in a classic Nissan truck with benches in the back.
The facility itself was old and charming, now serving primarily as a tasting room. We learned it was part of a regional cooperative of six farms sharing the distillery.
Poncho introduced us to their pride: a 25-year-aged mezcal, crafted in two styles—one matured in oak barrels, the other in stainless steel tanks. Both were lush, smooth, and delicious.
He served the mezcal with orange slices dusted in chili pepper, a refreshing twist compared to the lime-and-salt tradition of tequila. The oak-aged version won our favor. After a lunch of octopus, the three of us each bought bottles to bring home and share with friends.
The ride back through the estuary was even more thrilling, as Chris opened up the throttle and gave us what felt like an A?ticket amusement park ride.
Evening Ashore
That night, a small restaurant on the beach near our anchorage opened for dinner. We ended up seated next to a South African couple from Baluga, a boat we’d once seen for sale at Cabrales. They’re now headed south toward Panama.
With such a large anchorage, there’s no shortage of beach activities, and the small surf line at the estuary entrance adds to the fun for everyone.
What a memorable day—sailing, mezcal, new friends, and the joy of discovery.
Until the next update…
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