La Cruz and Yelapa
Wednesday February 4th
We’re up and out of Chacala around 6ish as planned. The morning air is cool, and whales are still cruising the bay as we wave goodbye to this beautiful anchorage.
Light winds again today, so we’re motor-sailing with the jib only. After a heavy dew overnight, Chris mops the deck, turning it into a free boat wash.
As we approach La Cruz, the sea grows into big, slow rollers that crash dramatically against the shore. Humpback whales surface nearby, their spouts catching the sunlight, while tourist boats linger close, full of excited watchers.
By 3ish we drop anchor outside the La Cruz marina among 10 to 15 other boats. The anchorage is a bit choppy, but it should settle down as night falls. Chris lays out extra anchor chain for peace of mind before we head into town.
Walking into La Cruz around 4ish, the streets feel hushed and shuttered—it’s still siesta hour. The air is warm, the cobblestones quiet underfoot. We stumble upon a small hotel bar where classic rock blares from the speakers, and we sip cold Victoria cervezas while the town slowly stirs awake. Our shopping list is simple but essential: tequila and mezcal. The bartender, friendly and animated, points us toward a street lined with tiendas and restaurants.
Shopping complete—yes, we found tequila and mezcal—we settle into Amigos Cantina. A chalkboard outside promises live music tonight, and the place hums with anticipation.
The menu leans Italian: Sicilian tomato soup and pizza sound perfect after a day on the water. Canadians gather around the TV, cheering at hockey games, while the cantina fills with laughter and conversation. I recommend Amigos—the food is excellent.
As a special treat, we meet fellow cruisers at the next table: Andrew and Leigh on sv Amanzi, here for boat work and waiting for crew. Conversation flows easily, and we introduce them to Penasco.
Heading back to the boat, the town is now alive—restaurants glowing, streets buzzing, music spilling from doorways. Nighttime is definitely the best time to visit. Back aboard, we wrap up the evening with cards, dice, and tequila before calling it a night. Tomorrow morning, we set course for Yelapa.
Thursday – Yelapa Adventure
We’re up with the sun and underway to Yelapa, south of Puerto Vallarta. We’ve chosen to skip Vallarta in favor of this small community tucked into the south side of Banderas Bay. Yelapa makes an excellent anchorage before rounding the sometimes treacherous Cabo Corrientes—our next night passage.
Yelapa is a small, deep-water port where locals place mooring balls to welcome visiting sailors. Just as the cruising guide promised, a panga greeted us and led us to a mooring—500 pesos per night.
Yelapa, Yelapa, Yelapa… I can’t wait to tell you about this beautiful village. It reminds me of Italy’s Cinque Terre. There are no roads here; the only way in is by water. The village is laced with narrow cobblestone walkways, just wide enough for ATVs. To get around, you walk, ride quads, or travel by horseback. The paths are lined with tropical gardens fronting homes, restaurants, and small businesses. Houses cascade down the steep hillside, overlooking white sand beaches. The vibe is spectacular. I thought Chalaca was a gem, but Yelapa is in a class of its own. I’ll definitely be bringing Frankie back here.
We paddleboard and kayak to the south shore to avoid a rough dinghy landing. My kayak landing was a little wetter than planned. Our first stop: a quaint café for lattes and a bit of sightseeing planning. Chris suggests we hike to the waterfall, reached by a cobblestone trail above town. The half-mile walk winds past tropical homes, restaurants, and pop-up vendors.
We meet quite a few English-speaking tourists—mostly Canadians. A swim in the fresh water at the waterfall washes away the salt from my kayak landing. On the way back, I pick up a t-shirt, and we discover a shortcut along the river spit that leads us to the beach restaurant area.
With loungers right on the sand, we relax over lunch while watching pangas expertly beach in the surf to drop off and pick up passengers.
Later, we take a long walk upriver to the east, where small ranchitos line the path. A bridge upstream allows quads to cross from the restaurant beach area to the main village on the south shore, so quad traffic is constant—hauling tourists and supplies.
Walking along the south side of the river, we pass more homes as we approach the village centro. There are three ways to cross the river: the secret shortcut, the long walk around, or—most picturesque of all—by horseback.
Back on the boat, we rest before our planned night passage to Perula, around Cabo Corrientes, about 17 hours south. Ricardo, our mooring host, finally comes to collect payment and offers us a shuttle to shore for dinner and returning us later we hope.
Dinner at Café Los Abuelos is excellent, with a line of guests waiting as we leave—a sure sign of its reputation. Back aboard after waiting for Ricardo, who was out fishing, we finalize our plan: depart at midnight. Paul will take the first three-hour watch, Chris at 3 a.m., and I’ll have the 6 a.m. shift—lucky me.
Chris and Paul turn in early while I sit in the saloon, listening to live music drifting across the water from a restaurant on shore. A short but unforgettable visit.
Yelapa—I’ll be back.
Until the next update.
Video coming soon
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A gang of us from Cholla visited Yalapa during our Y2K Vallarta adventure. Sledge & I were the only ones to hike to the waterfall from the beach. Hope you had a chance to sip some Racina, the local moonshine.
Kim and I loved Yelapa!